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Best of

the Twin Cities

BEST BAKERY

Patrick's Bakery & Cafe

When last in Paris we got a chance to go to that mad temple of takeout luxury, La Grande Epicerie at the big department store Le Bon Marche. As we stood there, we were stunned by the salamis, floored by the smoked and fresh fishes, gobsmacked by the cheeses, and nearly brought to tears by the frais du bois, the sushi, and the savory skewers, the appetizers, the, the everything.... Well, the everything except the pastries, which we walked past with a breezy "We can get those at home." Later we realized: How lucky are we? We really can get them at home! At any of the three locations of Patrick and Azita Bernet's unspeakably marvelous Patrick's Bakeries, where Patrick, the former Cordon Bleu Paris pastry instructor, whips together sugar, eggs, butter, cream, chocolate, berries, and nuts into such glorious, artful configurations that they look like sculpture, and taste like heaven: The Feuillantine Pralinée is a chocolate-enrobed mousse concoction that absolutely thunders with chocolate intensity, and vibrates with pastry delicacy. The strawberry tarts are golden boats ferrying the finest strawberries across bouyant cream seas. The Opera cake chicly organizes rich coffee buttercream with stripes of ganache and tender layers of cake. (Most of the deluxe concoctions cost $4.95 for an individual-sized cake that serves one or two; $32 for a cake to serve 6 to 8 people; and $38 for one portioned for 10 to 12 lucky souls.) Which is to say nothing of Patrick's sturdy breads, tender quiches (available in small sizes for immediate munching, and in giant sizes for home entertaining), melting Danish, crisp and proper croissants, and special only-in-America glories, like a pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving that just happens to be made with pumpkin mousse and adorned with adorable chocolate pyramids. It's true what they say: Travel really does make you appreciate home!

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