Of course, we love King's Fine Korean in Fridley—who doesn't?—but when we want our kimchi a little more low-key, i.e. sans karaoke, we head up Central Avenue and stop at Dong Yang. Inside the massive Asian grocery, which sells everything from household furniture to gallon jars of Korea's national pickle, a small lunchroom in back is staffed by Korean women who will feed you like you're family. The ambiance is nothing fancy—order at the counter, find a seat at one of the food-court tables—but the food is flavor-packed, between the man doo dumplings, gal bi short ribs, thin-sliced bul go gi beef, grilled-to-golden ka ji mee fish, and the beloved bibimbap: meat, vegetables, and rice served in a hot stone pot with a raw egg cracked on top. Despite the no-frills digs, the array of panchan (a changing assortment of small side dishes) that accompany entrées is downright decadent: tasty bites of bean sprout, spicy potato salad, and pickled daikon radish that are good enough to inspire singing, microphone or not.