Ah, the Happy Gnome. A veritable who's-who, or rather what's-what, of esoteric craft brews, equally keen on imports and domestics. Forty-four draft beers line three separate rails. Every other day or so, a new brand of keg replaces an old. Not a wide enough selection for you? The St. Paul watering hole also boasts more than 300 bottled beers—91 from Belgium (the Holy Land of ales) alone. Forty-four of them are listed as "rare and/or in limited supply." It's a long, tall order, sampling every single one of the Gnome's varieties of suds, but we can scarcely think of a more worthwhile, if liver-deteriorating, pursuit.