Fold yourself into a chair at Origami if you want to try what many agree is the best sushi in the state, and order the omakase. What's that? It's when you establish some kind of rapport with the sushi chef, and give him carte blanche to put together a meal for you. (You can specify a price range, usually between $15 and $30 a head.) What follows will be the height of the fishy arts: cubes of tuna like dark rubies, elegant little strips of translucent horse mackerel presented sashimi style, fresh hotate (scallop) rolled in a spiral with black seaweed paper, and more, more, more. Insider's tip: There are often baigai (Japanese escargot), sea cucumbers, and other oceanic rarities on the premises, so if you want in, ask. Hot dishes, too, are now some of the most original and best in town. Bargain weekday noodle lunches and late-night celebrity sightings round out the package. Who knew Elvis Costello, Tony Hawk, and Al Roker had anything in common? The Ridgedale Mall location is not as star-studded, but just as good.