Best dishes countdown #59: Matzo ball soup at Nighthawks

Perfect dough balls bobbing in a bowl of liquid gold.

Perfect dough balls bobbing in a bowl of liquid gold.

The Twin Cities have long lamented the absence of solid Jewish delis. How we have pined for bright lox, piles of blushing pastrami, and the backbone of any good kosher kitchen: matzo ball soup.

But in an era of genre-bending and game-changing, we can find these delights outside the traditional delicatessen. We can find them in a diner in south Minneapolis for instance, where foot-long hot dogs are served alongside inspired raw vegetable salads; where the matzo ball soup is as good and fortifying as any you'll find in Brooklyn. Head to Nighthawks for your fix.

As with any worthwhile soup, the broth's the thing. Here it's rich and profound, simple but essential. The golden elixir comes swirling with a heavy dose of fresh herbs and hearty chunks of carrot and chicken. The matzo balls bob to the top, each one soft but dense, holding together perfectly on your spoon but melting as soon as you've taken a bite.

It's truly the cure for whatever funk you're in — whether it's sinus congestion hell or the January blues.


3753 Nicollet Ave S, Minneapolis


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