Best dishes countdown #64: Chicken and waffles at Bradstreet

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Bradstreet's chicken and waffles: almost healthy.

Chicken and waffles has origins as a late-night/early-morning compromise for club-goers and jazz musicians exiting the bar at wee hours. I remember a time when the notion of the two combined sounded strange, when you'd say "chicken and waffles" to a guy and he'd look at you like you just said "umbrellas and weevils." Like, what? 

Now, it's practically a brunchtime staple — everybody's got a version, some good, some great. 

Bradstreet's is a great one. They've leavened the general gut bomb effect of the dish by making a wholesome buckwheat/green onion preparation out of the waffle, then tempura battering the chicken for a subtly Asian take on the southern classic. Butter tinged with sake, and a little lake of Fresno chile jam add tang and spice. The whole of it is bright, light, and understated for a dish that usually has all the subtlety of a sledgehammer to the gut. 

If all of this is just too delicate for your brunchy crave, consider a side of bacon candy or an order of duck fat biscuits, where things veer back into the territory of excess. 

Bradstreet Neighborhood Craftshouse

1930 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis 

612-871-1200

bradstreetcraftshouse.com

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